I just finished The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean by Susan Casey and I’ve been Googling a lot of big-wave surf videos and generally obsessing about the tsunami that’s going to smash the California coast sooner or later (get out while you can, my friends). (Bee-tee-dubs, Europe’s gonna get it, too.) (This book has made me one of those “End is nigh” weirdos. Except I still shower.)
The Wave covers massive, tragic waves that wiped out cities (did you know Lisbon was leveled in 1755? or that a SIXTEEN HUNDRED foot wave hit Alaska’s Lituya Bay in 1958?), and other dangers of the high seas. But the most fascinating parts focus on big-wave tow surfers (so named because a partner has to tow them into the wave with a Jet Ski), particularly Laird Hamilton (check out this video).
[…] Anyhoo. It’s a great book.
While Nora has been reading and researching big wave surfers, I have finished four books about food and been dog-earing recipes.
It’s like I don’t even know who we are anymore.
In related surfer girl news, please check out ridonkiculous big wave 23-year-old rider: Maya Gabreira.
Last night, I dreamed that I went surfing with a rented longboard which had no fins and no leash. When I went to return it for a smaller board after my session, the boy behind the counter refused to believe I could actually surf and would not exchange it. This dream upset me greatly.
